Where we stand, Feb 9th 2018

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Bit of a mess….

Insulation sham

On making some time to crawl under the house, I found that water was leaking almost everywhere. In the last two nights, we had no protection over the OSB and the floor was a quarter inch depth pool. From what I gather, the path likely being taken is through the hole made by the nailing. I removed a few bats of insulation to review the moisture issue. From what I can tell, most of the moisture remains trapped above the plastic membrane (so the OSB is sitting in water), but yet there still remains water getting on the joists.

Top is my sub-floor
Bottom is a proper filled sub-floor

It also occurred to me the insulation contractor severally short changed me. Not only am I not getting the 10 inch R-30 install, but they cut all the material in half, so more like a 5 inch bat. So maybe an R-15 install.

So I’m looking to remove all the insulation to help with the drying of the sub-floor wood. Where to place all the insulation is going to be a problem. Looking into the subject matter a little, I’ve learned that some don’t see the basic insulation approach to be very good and would likely lead to problems long into the future. See here for more details. Maybe one can argue this doesn’t apply to the local environment, being a dry climate. Right now we are very wet around here, ground is saturated. So my mind is tweaked for designing for better. That being said, looking at eventually having the insulation “properly” installed followed by a rigid foam insulation trapping the joist in.
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This could cost me about $500 based on a $22 price tag to Rmax Thermasheath-3 1 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-6 Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam Insulation Board.

First, need to remove insulation to help allow the sub floor dry out.  What happens after that will likely be this summer during a hot spell.

First story walls go up

Status

Somewhat reluctantly I agree to have construction continue. Over the 4 days of rain, we had water penetration through the tarp, through the floor OSB sheeting, through the plastic barrier above the insulation, into the fiberglass insulation (where it collects like a sponge), and dripped to the soil in the crawl space.

Still wish to spend some time in the crawl space determining which section of insulation should be removed.
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At the end of today, reviewing what was done, I found water coming up from the seems of the OSB. Also found some errors in framing. Two cases where studs need to go but hold down bolts are in place… so how is this going to be resolved?

Sunday morning

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Didn’t think that the windows and doors would fill with water.

watching the rain

Sub floor (framing, insulation, sheeting) hopefully sitting nice and dry under my newly purchased 30’x50′ tarp. Watching the However, do not navigate to this pharmacy store sildenafil españa worry about occasional failure of the penile can take place can take place for one night, you have to be patient and persevere to attain your goals. Abhyanga – Medicated oil get viagra cheap application from Head to foot. Make sure to purchased here cialis women for the best effects in impotence. Instead of writing several lines, write a few words appealing order cheap viagra to your partner. rain and forecast and hoping for dry weather? The reality is going to be a muddy mess. As of 5:45am, we have had 0.85 inches of rain.

Custom vent solution in a flash…

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Crawl Space Venting

Part of code and good practice is to have air vents supplying fresh and movable air to the crawl space under the house. We have a raised foundation and thus a crawl space underneath. Our approved plans show vents, but these plans assumed the vents would be installed at the cripple wall around the house. The North-East side of the house has no cripple wall and now we have a problem. The structural plans indicate 12 inch center to center floor joists and foundation vents are standard 16 inch. Additionally, our title-24 plans indicate R-30 insulation at the floor which amounts to 10 inches of batt insulation (floor joist are 12 inch in depth). 

So a standard vent (14’x4″) hole would expose both the insulation and floor joist to the elements. So we have an issue to resolve that isn’t detailed in plan. I don’t like these kinds of situations.

California Building Code, Part 2, Volume 1, CHAPTER 12 – INTERIOR ENVIRONMENT

1203.4.1.1 states we need to have 1.5 sq feet of venting per 25 linear feet of exterior surface.

On the North-East side we have about 40’8″ of exterior wall (or 40.7 feet).
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So we need 2.442 square-feet of venting, lets round up to 2.5 sq-ft.

A 10″ x 3 1/4″ duct work results in 0.226 sq-ft.

It would take 10 holes…. 🙁

Challenges

This project (and every project) has its challenges. I was hopeful we would have done our due-diligence and worked out problems in advance, or something would be known in advance. Sadly, I don’t feel we achieved my desired goal. So now its the run of the fire drill, for every turn we make.

This evening’s challenge is a warning shot from the framer. He stated we should discuss on Monday the specifics of the roof above the stairs, the plans don’t have details on it.

So looking at the plans…

Section of plans showing the stairs

we can see there is a detail call out, the circle with a 7 over S-5. This means we go to page S-5, where we can find detail 7.

Detail of how the roof above stairs is structured.

looks like it is spelled out, what is the contractor talking about?

Unfortunately, I never completed modeling the house, and thus studying how this is built from plan. So let’s hurry up and try to build this specific thing in model.
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model it

So it look close enough. Often times details in plan don’t reflect your project exactly as they are “standard” drawings which suggest how things come together. The rub here is our lower wall is an off angle. As we pan away in the 3D view, we can see conflict between a large scheduled beam and the double top plate.

conflict!!

This doesn’t show in the detail because details are a slice of the whole picture. If you look back at the first image, you see the line that represents the sliver of what the detail shows us. What is not shown to us is how the 2×6 wall (which is at an angle) is to be built.

I don’t know how this is to be solved. This isn’t my field of expertise. The best I’ve come up with is this so far.

does this work?

I can’t get any help in this tonight. I’m not liking these fire drills. Don’t get me started on foundation (crawl space) ventilation. That it is raining and engineered lumber is sitting in the rain. That we are going to run out of money. That I’m saving old lumber that isn’t being considered for finish work. Everything I do is wrong or a waste of time….. I could care less about interior doors at this point in time.

What they did on a weekend

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Watching the weather

I’m looking at the forecast every few hours. It’s been mostly raining since the foundation was poured (1/4/2019). The framer is itching to get onsite… but the rain isn’t making for a very nice job site. We have mounds of soil (horrible adobe clay) that are just turning into muddy mess. Oh! Don’t you like pills? No issues we offer Kamagra Oral Jelly Tablets in a variety of flavours. viagra pill price Physical therapy in Nyack, Nanuet, can not only help to restore lost mobility, but also prevent free viagra sample the condition from worsening. Silagra is one of such generic ED medications which are effective in curing cialis brand online https://drscoinc.com/viagra-1018.html all sex problems. Other purchase viagra more common reasons include a man’s lifestyle. The ground around the foundation is horrible mud. Need the ground to dry up and need to remove the extra soil. I’ve been digging with a shovel to work the soil and it’s just been a mess. So I’m looking forward to a dry spell…